Journey to Carnarvon Gorge
Embarking from Brisbane, a full day's road trip via Roma will land you at the majestic Carnarvon Gorge. If pressed for time, you can take to the skies, travelling from Brisbane to Emerald which is 234km north. The hour-long flight offers a breathtaking spectacle of the radiant white cliffs of the canyon glinting under the morning sunbeam.
Once you reach Emerald, your journey continues down the Gregory Highway south to Springsure. Next, embark on the Dawson Highway which takes you to Rolleston, and from there a further 61km drive leads you to the entrance road for the gorge. Your final stretch of the drive, 45km from the turn-off, includes the last 15km on a well-maintained dirt track.
The final stretch of the access road is home to the majority of the brilliant sights and handy facilities. The terminus of the road is the national park visitor centre, where a wealth of information on the exquisite beauty and grandeur of the gorge is available. The visitor centre is set amidst verdant lawns that magnetize kangaroos and wallabies for grazing, forming a natural spectacle before the gorge's walk trails even begin. The trails offer a chance to immerse oneself in nature and witness sights and sounds unique to Australian outback wilderness.
Highlights of the Trip
The Carnarvon Creek has beautifully sculpted a labyrinth of towering chasms in the gorge, brimming with a combination of leftover patches of rainforest, serene pools, magnificent caves, and age-old Indigenous art galleries. A fair share of these features can be found beyond the confines of the park visitor center. Yet, three attractions, namely the Baloon Cave, Mickey Creek Gorge, and Rock Pool, conveniently enter the scene from short routes stretching from the final section of the entrance road.
My initial afternoon in the gorge was marked by two splendid encounters. It started with a jaunty vault over the stones of Carnarvon Creek leading to Rock Pool. This was the perfect spot for a refreshing plunge to regain my composure after the journey. My adventurous spirit then led me to Mickey Creek Gorge; clambering up, I found myself in the heart of a constricting aisle; there I was, confined between contorted rock enveloped in a blanket of green moss.
The main gorge walking track, originating from the visitor center, zigzags its way along Carnarvon Creek, stretching over 9.7 kilometers to reach the Big Bend. Here, you can find a natural pool nestled beneath sandstone cliffs, enticing the visitors for a cooling immersion, and making an ideal campsite.
While you're traveling this route, you’ll encounter numerous detours leading to a series of hidden rock caves. Expect to stumble upon everything from ancient ferns predating the dinosaurs to an impressive amphitheater encapsulated by walls soaring up to 60 meters.
Embrace the Adventure Within Carnarvon Gorge
Keen hikers are presented with the exhilarating experience of a 22km one-day trek to marvel at the key attractions that extend up to the Cathedral Cave, a sanctuary used by Indigenous Australians for millennia. For those looking to test their physical endurance, test your mettle with the challenging, six-day 87km Carnarvon Great Walk. This trek commences at the mouth of the gorge, ultimately looping back to the start, but not before necessitating the carrying of camping gear and essentials.
If you're after a less demanding adventure, set your sights on the Art Gallery, located a manageable 5.4km from the visitor centre. Along your journey, don't miss out on absorbing other exciting sights peppering the route. Regardless of the chosen path, it's advisable to kick-start your adventure early to sidestep the challenging afternoon heat.
Not only will visiting Carnarvon Gorge provide breathtaking wilderness views, but it also offers interesting glimpses into the history and culture of Indigenous Australians. It's worth noting that the park is home to more than 173 bird species, providing an excellent opportunity for bird watching.
The challenge, the stunning views and the deep dive into Aboriginal history make Carnarvon gorge a remarkable tourist destination in central Queensland.
Journeys with Experts
My time at Carnarvon Gorge in central Queensland is considerably short, but not without adventure. I set out on a day trip orchestrated by the locality expert, Simon Ling, from Australian Nature Guides. Ling's proficiency in the realm of ecology and biodiversity is unmatched, having served as a guide through the fascinating landscape since 1999. His tour beautifully unwinds the various aspects of the gorge, ranging from the verdant flora and fauna to the captivating geological formations and the cultural heritage of its indigenous settlers.
As day breaks, Ling helps us penetrate the depth of the gorge's ecosystem. Slow, yet informative strides are taken to understand the life cycles of diverse plants like the native hibiscus and Australian bluebells , as well as distinctive tree-hugging orchids and age-old cycads. As temperatures rise, the gorge becomes alive with the Critically Endangered Gouldian finches and enchanting fairy wrens flitting about. The sight of wallabies emerging from their sleep adds to the excitement. Our journey continues with encounters of white-faced herons camouflaging near the creeks, a horde of king parrots flaunting their dazzling crimson and green plumage, and an echidna maneuvering through the foliage. The ethereal beauty of Carnarvon Gorge is indeed an untamed symphony, waiting to be explored.
Within the capture of Daniel Scott's lenses, the Art Gallery of Carnarvon Gorge breathes life into ancient rock art. Photo credit to Daniel Scott/The Guardian.
Guided by Ling in the Art Gallery, you'll immerse yourself in the world of the Karingbal and Bidjara people as you witness over 2,000 representations of ethereal handprints and vibrant paintings that originated more than 3,500 years ago. Transcending time and space, these works of art feature emus and kangaroos, sacred totem animals of the indigenous tribes. More so, the complex net stencils and symbols conveying sexual themes reveal that this location held importance as a rites-of-passage site for both genders and as a cemetery.
Taking a path back from where we came from, we then deviate to the tranquil Ward’s Canyon. Dining beneath the endemic king ferns that tower at an impressive five metres high, it dawns on us that this secluded place in the central part of Australia is the only habitat these majestic plants call home. Shrouded from sunlight, the canyon served as a nature-made refrigerator in the early 20th century utilized by the Ward brothers, their livelihood deriving from the fur of possums they skillfully hunted.
Our journey introduces us to Simon Ling, an enthusiast of king fern, found basking in Ward's Canyon. The pictures were artistically captured by Daniel Scott for The Guardian.
As mid-afternoon approaches, we ascend an iron staircase and step through a slender fracture in the rock wall leading to the amphitheatre. This vast bowl, carved from the encompassing plateau, gives a dramatic impression as one of the tourists belts out a near flawless performance of Leonard Cohen’s hit song, Hallelujah, amplifying its melody across the echo chamber. This incredible spectacle delivers a unique audiovisual treat that's indisputably a crowd favorite.
Lastly, our adventure takes us to the moss garden. This natural wonder, encapsulated within the arms of Violet Gorge, shimmers in varying hues of verdant green, thriving under the nourishing touch of age-old springs nestled within the rocks—dating back to a period between 5 and 10,000 years.
In total, Ling's intriguing lower gorge exploration spans 14km, completed at a comfortable pace over an eight-hour interval. The tour fees stand at $55 per person. Frame your own adventure with the additional information provided here, and embrace the wonder of Carnarvon Gorge.
Experiencing Carnarvon Gorge Through Day and Night Tours, and an Aerial Adventure
Teaming up again with Ling, we embark on a fascinating night safari tour in the vicinity of the visitor centre. An exhilarating encounter ensues shortly after our journey across the creek, as the spotlight captures a distinctive, large-eared yellow-bellied glider nestled high in a gum tree. The onlookers then witness this captivating creature launch itself through the lofty treetops, its limbs outstretched, and web-like structures functioning as wings, manoeuvring elegantly and curiously in slow-motion before settling gently on a tree trunk some 30 meters away.
As our exhilarating night adventure continues, we observe a larger greater glider skilfully traverse approximately 100 meters across the creek. A plethora of gliders come into sight during our electrifying exploration, amongst them, a particularly interesting cluster of breeding greater gliders, whose diet consists solely of leaves, much like koalas. Other noteworthy sights on our nocturnal expedition included kangaroos, wallabies, and the telltale ripples of a platypus in the creek, adding further magic to our exploration.
Sunset on the Carnarvon ranges. Photograph: Daniel Scott Photograph: Daniel Scott/The Guardian
On my first evening I do a new sunset tour at the nearby 17,000-hectare Bandana cattle station, which costs $30 per person. Gathered around a campfire with drinks and canapés, we watch the sun illuminating the Great Dividing Range as station owner Olivia Evans, a sixth generation descendant of the area’s European settlers, recounts stories of cattle doffing (stealing) and mustering by helicopter. Leaving behind hectic city lives, Evans and her husband are gradually transforming Bandana into an organic cattle farm.
On my final morning, I get an idea of the scale of the Carnarvon ranges, nicknamed the “rooftop of Queensland”, on a 20-minute helicopter flight with local pilot Shane Swanson. Concentrating on Moolayember Gorge, adjacent to Carnarvon, which can only be otherwise accessed on a seven-day trek, we overfly rock formations like the Three Sisters, whose bluffs and spindly gullies look mythic in the morning sun. The flight adds a wider perspective on the explosion of life in the midst of the dry, rocky inland region. See helicentral.net.au; flights cost $390 for two people.
Accommodation and Cuisine
While you may not find the high luxury resorts tucked away in this secluded part of the world, the attractions here lie in the embrace of a serene and unspoiled nature. A humble yet comfortable safari tent with shared amenities hosted by Takarakka Bush Resort is where you'll find your accommodations for a fair price of $115 for two. Nestled in a loop encompassing Carnarvon Creek, home to playful platypuses, Takarakka also offers an array of housing options from cottages ($230 for a couple) to ensuite cabins ($195) and even camping facilities.
Before you settle into the wilderness, there are several hotels in Queensland to provide you with a restful night's sleep following your journey.
The dining arrangements mainly involve self-catered meals at Takarakka, but the occasional special roast dinner is not to be missed out. Alongside, the resort provides a stocked store, free Wi-Fi, and a friendly team with a deep understanding of the area and its offerings.
Another accommodation option that is closer to the visitor center, and perhaps just a slight step above in amenities, is the Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge. It boasts of an in-house licensed restaurant and ensuite cabins and is operational from March through November every year.
Should you be considering a stop in Brisbane during your travels, consider the charming Mount Gravatt Guesthouse Brisbane. It offers a homey and peaceful respite from the city's hustle, making it an ideal accommodation choice.
For the true thrill-seekers amongst us, the Carnarvon National Park offers camping options at the visitor area, and at Big Bend, situated 9.7km deep into the gorge. Remember, camping permits are required to enjoy these raw wilderness experiences.
No matter the accommodation you choose to book, whether luxurious, modest, or touching the heart of nature, look no further than tophotels.com to book a perfect place suited to your tastes and budget.
Optimal Timing and Essentials to Carry
For optimal weather conditions conducive for trekking, plan your escapade between May and October. This period characteristically exhibits warm and dry daytime conditions which aren’t overwhelmingly hot. Keep in mind, evenings tend to be chilly, thus packing warm attire and snug sleeping bags is strongly advised. Being well equipped with cooking apparatus and adequate supplies is critical for an enjoyable camping experience or for an extended stay at Takarakka. Interested in gleaning additional details? Visit capriconholidays.com.au or connect at 1800 676 701, where ample assistance awaits.